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real caribbean flavor

    After checking out several Caribbean eateries, whether takeout or informal eat-in establishments, I’m afraid I haven’t that much confidence in the cleanliness of the kitchen at most of these places. Of course, the food is still fantastic.

    One place you can go for genuine Caribbean flavor where you won’t have to worry about health-code violations is the Caribbean Sunrise Bakery & Restaurant. This well-run establishment displays a “Clean Plate Award,” which means that they experienced no health-code violations during their latest inspection.

    The place has got a fast-food feel because that’s exactly what it is: a tasty alternative to the usual burgers and fries. They’ve got a drive-up window, and many diners order their meal at the counter to enjoy at home. Some, though, sit down in the small dining area to enjoy their jerk chicken or oxtail. Like most true Caribbean food, they aren’t much for presentation, but one bite will convince you that it’s worth the sacrifice. Caribbean Sunrise Bakery & Restaurant is also, of course, a bakery. They sell freshly baked breads and keep a small stock of Caribbean spices and drinks.

    Oxtail was one of the things I ordered. It’s a menu item you can find, not only in the Caribbean, but in much of the Southern portion of the U.S. The Caribbean version at Sunrise Bakery is doused in a gravy that is infused with hot Caribbean spices. The oxtail (which actually comes from a cow) has a hearty flavor, like beef stew, enhanced by the spicy gravy. At Sunrise, the oxtail was actually quite tender, which means they took the time to cook it correctly.

    Some of the more unusual Caribbean dishes are made from portions of a cow that are normally discarded. In the 1600s and 1700s, slaves and hired-hands in the Caribbean and the South were given what was known as the “fifth-quarters,” all the less-accepted portions of a slaughtered animal, such as skin, head, feet, tail and internal organs. That’s why you’ll find savory but strange items like oxtail and cow foot on many Caribbean menus.

    The jerk chicken at Sunrise was certainly savory and spicy, though it wasn’t the best I’ve had in town. Even so, the stuff is incredibly good. The standout items at the bakery are their patties, especially the beef patties. These flaky, brightly colored pastry pies are made fresh everyday, encasing some kind of flavorful meat.

    They also make a fresh sorrel drink, which is made from sorrel leaves, purified water, a little ginger and sugar. It’s a tasty alternative to a soda and it’s different than most drinks you can try.

    Whatever you order from Sunrise, you’re going to get plenty for the price. It’s a Jacksonville secret that might not be such a secret any more, judging from the large and diverse crowd of people coming through their dining room.

4106 N. Main Street (904) 355-0405
Mon-Sat 8 am- 10 pm, Sun 8 am-7 pm, $